The new variety of squash at
Mary's Heirloom Seeds is the Spaghetti Squash and is a winter variety.
I am really looking forward to growing these gorgeous cucurbita!
88 days. Introduced in 1934. Easy to grow.
This is a very popular squash with stringy flesh that can be used like spaghetti. Squash is ripe when they turn yellow and sound hollow when thumped.
This is a very popular squash with stringy flesh that can be used like spaghetti. Squash is ripe when they turn yellow and sound hollow when thumped.
Companion plants for squash are: Beans, corn, cucumbers, icicle radishes, melon, mint, onions and pumpkin. Helpers: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigolds deters beetle. Oregano provides general pest protection. Dill may repel the squash bug that will kill your squash vines.
From the Growing from Seed page:
In spring, sow seeds in prepared beds or hills after your last frost has passed, or sow them indoors under bright fluorescent lights. Set out seedlings when they are about three weeks old. In Zone 6 and warmer, you can plant more winter squash in early summer, using space vacated by fall-planted garlic or early spring lettuce. Stop planting winter squash 14 weeks before your expected first fall frost.
How to Plant Winter Squash
Winter
squash grows best in warm conditions, in fertile, well-drained soil
with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Choose a sunny site and prepare
3-foot-wide planting hills within wide rows, or position them along your
garden’s edge. Leave 5 to 6 feet between hills. Loosen the soil in the
planting sites to at least 12 inches deep. Thoroughly mix in a 2-inch
layer of mature compost and a light application of balanced, organic
fertilizer. Water well. Plant six seeds per hill, poking them into the
soil 1 inch deep. After seeds germinate (about 10 days after sowing),
thin seedlings to three per hill. Set up protective row covers as soon
as you’re done planting.
Harvesting and Storage
Fruits
are ripe if you cannot easily pierce the rind with your fingernail.
Never rush to harvest winter squash, though, because immature fruits
won’t store well. Unless pests or freezing weather threaten them, allow
fruits to ripen until the vines begin to die back. Expect to harvest
three to five squash per plant. Use pruning shears to cut fruits from
the vine, leaving 1 inch of stem attached. Clean away dirt with a soft,
damp cloth, and allow fruits to cure for two weeks in a spot that’s 70
to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Store cured squash in a cool, dry place, such
as your basement, a cool closet or even under your bed. Check every two
weeks for signs of spoilage.
Winter squash face challenges from squash
bugs, squash vine borers and cucumber beetles. To defend your plants
from all three insects, shield them with row covers held aloft with
stakes or hoops until the plants begin to bloom. Big, healthy plants
will produce well despite pest pressure. Among diseases, powdery mildew
is a common problem best prevented by growing resistant varieties, which
often have “PMR” (for “powdery mildew resistance”) after their variety
names. In addition, a spray made of 1 part milk and 6 parts water can
suppress powdery mildew if applied every two weeks during the second
half of summer.
Winter Squash Growing Tips and Ideas
Grow open-pollinated
varieties so you can save your own seeds for eating and replanting.
Only choose hybrids if you need a space-saving bush habit or a special
form of disease resistance.
Try growing winter squash in an old compost
pile located along the edge of your garden. Small-fruited varieties do
well if allowed to scramble up a fence.
This is a Garden Spotlight Series: